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Day 1. - We leave Huaraz
early in the morning (4:30am) heading for the nearby glacier of Pastoruri, a 1 1/2 hour drive.
Upon arrival there is a short hike to our campsite, where
we drop off our camping gear and suit up for the day on the glacier.
Our cook will remain at the campsite to set up the tents,
keep an eye on our things and prepare a delicious dinner so
it is ready for our return.
We continue up (20 minutes) to the glacier (5000 meters) where
the course begins with an introduction to all of the
gear and some general concepts important to mountaineering.
During this 40-minute talk we explore the different hazards
associated with mountaineering. Following that, walking
with crampons is practiced right there on the ice, then
lunch and a lesson on how glaciers are formed.
After lunch we'll head up onto the glacier to a good steep slope
where we practice self-arrest, rope team travel techniques
and introduce snow anchors. Around 5:30 pm we wrap up for the day and
descend back to our camp for a hot drink, a delicious dinner,
and some sleep.
Day 2. - Breakfast
is at 7:15 am and class begins at 8:00 am. We spend the morning
in campsite learning belay systems, equalized anchors, and
haul systems - all components of the crevasse rescue system
which we delve into right before lunch. After thoroughly understanding
the system on dry land we return to the glacier around
2:00pm where we put our new skills to the test at the edge
of a live crevasse. The entire afternoon is dedicated to the
practice of this important skill "crevasse rescue"
as crevasse fall is common hazard of a non-technical glaciated
climb. That evening those who still have energy can make the
20-minute walk to visit a spectacular ice cave, which tunnels
50 meters underneath the glacier.
Day 3. - .We leave
campsite at 7:00am and head up to the ice for a climb on Pastoruri
Mountain. Participants take charge of the climb using the
skills learned in the previous 2 days. We wander through crevasse
fields and over some technical terrain where both running
and fixed belays will be used. At some point during the day,
a surprise crevasse fall (and rescue) will be performed. Around noon
we end up at an ice wall where participants will set up an anchor
and spend the remaining 3 hours vertical ice climbing
on their very own top rope belay system.
Around 3:30 pm we return to our camp, gather our equipment
and head down to the bus and on to Huaraz. We will stop briefly
to visit a grove of rare, spectacular "Puya Ramondi"
plants which live for 80 years reaching an amazing 8 meters
in height! We will be back in Huaraz around 7:00 pm where
all participants receive a certificate of achievement and
possibly begin to plan their first climbing expedition!
6 Day Course Details - . The
core teaching days of the 6 day course are similarly structured as the 3 day
course. The differences between the two come from a change in location as well
as the inclusion of a summit attempt on the mountain Yanapaqcha (5460 meters). Day
one leaves a bit later from Huaraz (8am) and drives up the Llanganuco valley to
the popular Cebolla Pampa trail head. This is the entrance point for the Pisco climb
and also the Laguna 69 trek. Yanapaqcha sits at the head of the same valley. A few hours
hiking from here will bring you to the basecamp for the course and climb, situated at
the foot of the Yanapaqcha glacier and next to a beautiful alpine lake. Some preliminary
skills will be presented this first afternoon after camp is set and an orientation to the
area has been given. The following three days will run on the same itinerary described above.
Day 5 of the course will be a summit day, leaving camp about 4am and climbing through the
morning hours on the flanks of the mountain. Slightly more technical than Pisco, Yanapaqcha
offers slopes up to 60 degrees in verticality, as the route winds through big blue crevasse
fields and tops out on a very defined summit point with views of Chacaraju, Pisco, Chopicalqui,
Huascaran, and more! After the descent you have a final evening at your camp and day 6 will be
a hike out to the road and your pick-up vehicle and a 2 hour journey back to Huaraz.
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